I recently presented this recipe, from our M Bistro, on WMUR’s “Cook’s Corner.” What follows is the recipe, and a little more background info about the dressing and its roots.
Most salad dressings make liberal use of vegetable oil or mayonnaise (which is just another form of vegetable oil). Vegetable oil, however, requires elaborate mechanical extraction, and is unsuitable for domestic production. In our not-so-distant agrarian past, such commercially prepared foods were comparative rarities. Improvising with what they had, American homemakers enriched their salad dressings not with oil, which was used sparingly if at all, but with readily available cream. This kind of dairy-based salad dressing is the forefather of the now-ubiquitous Ranch dressing. Our version, which calls for partially whipping the cream, is prepared like a French crème fouettée – savory whipped cream thickened with a splash of vinegar. Like many of our M-Bistro recipes it is both novel and authentic, drawing on both Continental tradition and nearly forgotten American foodways.
Though dousing a salad in heavy cream may seem unforgivably decadent, this old-fashioned dressing may, in fact, be lighter and less caloric than many contemporary favorites. Unlike many bottled dressings, it contains no sugar. Furthermore, heavy cream is only 36-40% fat, whereas a traditional oil-based dressing may be as much as 66% fat. Calorie counting aside, Farmhouse Cream Dressing has an acidic tang and fluffy texture that is as cool and refreshing, as it is rich. It makes an excellent compliment to fresh summer produce.
Recipe Yields Approximately 5 Portions, 3 Ounces Each
Ingredients:
2 Cups Heavy (Whipping) Cream
1 Teaspoon Sherry Vinegar
1 Teaspoon Garlic Powder
2 Tablespoons Minced Fresh Dill
1/8 Teaspoon Cayenne Pepper
Kosher Salt To Taste
1. In a chilled stainless steel bowl combine cream, garlic powder, dill, and cayenne pepper.
2. Season to your liking with Kosher Salt.
3. Whisk vigorously until the cream has just begun to increase in volume.
4. Add the vinegar all at once and whisk briefly to combine. The vinegar will coagulate the milk proteins in the cream, and must be dispersed quickly and evenly throughout or else the cream will curdle. Take care, however, not to whisk too much, as mechanical action encourages coagulation, and over whisking will also curdle the dressing.
The dressing can be served immediately, but will benefit from being prepared a day in advance, allowing the flavors to infuse and mellow. The dressing will keep, tightly lidded, in the refrigerator for 3-4 days, and will continue to thicken as it rests. If the dressing becomes too thick, simply thin to a pour-able consistency with a little whole milk. Pour generously over cold, crisp iceberg lettuce with crumbled bacon, grated cheddar, grilled onions and cherry tomatoes for a classic Wedge Salad, or serve alongside a selection of crunchy raw vegetable sticks for a light appetizer (crudités).
